Showing posts with label carnuntum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label carnuntum. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

The Carnuntum Region


Although Carnuntum is a lesser known wine region of Austria, there is a plethora of quality wine coming from the fine vineyards located there. Carnuntum is one of Austria's smallest wine regions, making up only 2% of the wine growing area with 1000 hectares under vine.

A short drive from Vienna, Carnuntum is a part of Austria with a unique Roman history and many ruins are still present throughout the region today. The region spans from east of Vienna to the border of Slovakia with vineyards spread along the famous Danube river among three sectors: the Leithagebirge, the Arbesthaler Hügelland and the Hainburger Berge.

The Leithagebirge: Rich in clay, gravel and chalk. Oriented toward the west, vines are shielded from the heat and humidity by the forests located here which account for the fresh and fruity wines produced in this area.
Arbesthaler Hügelland: The soils in this sector vary as the higher portions of the hill consist of gravel soils, while lower portions consist of clay soils. Very aromatic, well-ripened grapes, that ultimately turn in to fruit-intensive white wines and velvety reds, exist in this sector as the influence from Lake Neusiedl, the Danube and neighboring forests create an ideal climate.
Hainburger Berge: Soils consist of mica-slate and granite-gneiss, along with elements of chalk. This area is a nature reserve due to some rare plant life that live in the area. Vines are planted in the south and southeast oriented slopes and have a poor soil structure and low rainfall. As a result, this is a late-ripening area of Carnuntum.

Typical wines produced in Carnuntum are sexy red wines of a combination of fruit and elegance made from Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Sauvignon and structured examples of white wines made from Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.

History: Carnuntum was under Roman rule until roughly 430 A.D. Evidence shows that wine has been produced in the region for thousands of years, though it is impossible to say which varietals were originally produced.

Carnuntum's wine making culture has drastically changed in the past 100 years. Originally, most of the wine producers in the area were farmers that also grew a variety of other produce. The region was best known for it's white wines that dominated production at nearly 85% which now is closer to 60-40% predominantly whites. To grow the grapes, most vintners used a stake training method for the vines and most varietals were not kept separate from each other. This resulted in many Gemischter Satz wines in the region.

Carnuntum's wine culture was all but destroyed by WWII which made a complete overhaul of the region necessary. Though the region generally stayed out the limelight through the restructuring of Austrian wine culture that took place in the 1990s, Carnuntum underwent and quality and image transformation when Austrian red varietal sales rose in 2000. A combination of fresh, young winemakers, ideal soils and unbeatable climate helped the region emerge among the larger wine producing areas.

To set itself apart from other wine making regions in Austria, Carnuntum created their own system of labeling.
Primus Carnuntum: White, kabinett wine produced mainly from the region's Grüner Veltliner grapes blended with other coveted varieties. The wine must be made from at least 200 kilos of grapes with a must weight of 16º KMW. These wines are labeled from all wineries with a uniform label featuring painter Gottfried Lav Wurm and are annually christened by notable personalities at a special ceremony before release.

Rubin Carnuntum: A red wine that can only be made of Zweigelt or Blaufränkisch that reflect the region's typical character. These wines must be of a single variety. The wines mininum must weight is 18º KMW and they must have an abv of 12.5% or higher in order to ensure aging potential. To ensure recognition, each Rubin Carnuntum wine is bottled with the same back label text and totes the Heidentor (Heather's gate, Roman archway) logo on its capsule.

Carnuntum Reserve: These wines follow the Austrian wine law for reserve wines. Wines labeled under this name must have a minimum of 13%abv, must be made of a registered grape variety and may not be bottled before November of the following year (min. 13 months of maturation.)

In short, though Carnuntum is a small wine producing area of Austria it has a very large character. From it's historical roots to modern day wine making, Carnuntum is a region not to be missed.

VieVinum Day 2: Dinner in Carnuntum


After the master class, several VieVinum attendees headed over the VieVinum Cup and following dinner of Vienna Whites and Lower Austrian Reds, but a couple of my new found companions and I opted to take advantage of one of the separate programs taking place that evening: dinner in the Roman ruins of the Carnuntum wine region featuring traditional Roman cuisine and an array of Zweigelt. Truth be told, I wish it had been possible to attend both - but that just wasn't possible!

The event was hosted by Wine & Partners of Austria who picked up a small group of us, twelve or so, in the city center of Vienna and whisked us away to the vineyards of Carnuntum. Our first stop was the Glatzer winery which was set up to showcase the wines of the region. Present were:

Weingut Walter Glatzer - Zweigelt 2008; Grüner Veltliner 2009
Weingut Gerhard Markowitsch -Zwiegelt 2008; Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2009
Weingut Robert Payr - Zwiegelt 2008; Grüner Veltliner Rothenberg 2008
Weingut Gerhard Pimpel - Zwiegelt 2008; Chardonnay 2009
Weingut Franz & Christine Netzl - Zwiegelt 2008; Weissburgunder Selection Barnreiser 2009
Weingut Lukas Markowitsch -Zweigelt 2008; Savignon Blanc 2009
Weingut Johannes Trapl - Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt 2009
Weingut Franz Taferner - Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt 2009
Weingut Stefan Ott -Zweigelt 2008
Family Grassl, Nepomukhof - Zweigelt 2008
Family Artner - Zweigelt 2008

After tasting through and a brief introduction to the region we traveled to the town of Carnuntum which hosts the preserved sit of Roman ruins. Our tour guide explained to us that everything we saw there was as close to real as it possibly could be... the coolest part? We could touch everything! The other cool part? Our dinner was actually held in one of the houses that had been preserved and reconstructed. How many people can say they've wined & dined IN ancient ruins?

To begin the dinner, we met outside of the ruins and were served a traditional, mead style beverage of white wine infused with honey paired with a hearty oat bread. Once we shuffled inside to take our places, we found many of the winemakers waiting for us to join them at dinner. The dinner consisted for four courses and each course was paired with three wines.

Ham with a crust of honey served with a wax-creamy egg and a pine nut & lovage sauce
Grüner Veltliner Arbesthal 2009 - Stefan Ott
Grüner Veltliner Selection 2009 - Neopmukhof Grassl
Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2008 - Hannes Trapl

Carnuntum green asparagus with mint
Rubin Carnuntum 2008 Zweigelt - Walter Glatzer
Rubin Carnuntum 2008 Zweigelt - Gerhard Markowitsch
Spitzerber 2007 Blaufränkisch - Robert Payr

Braised lamb served with "Liquamen" and dried plums
Zweigelt Selection 2007 - Gerhard Pimpel
Cuvee Lukas 2007 - Lukas Markowitsch
Anna-Christina 2007 - Franz & Christine Netzl

"Globuli-Topfenknödel" served with strawberry salad
Sauvignon Blanc 2009 sample of the barrel - Family Artner
Gelber Muskateller 2009 - Franz Taferner

After the dinner we met back outside to taste through more wines and share a closing cigar before being carted off to Vienna again (which ultimately ended in a trip to the famous Wien & Co. there is a regular occurrence.)

It was really interesting to experience the wine region in such a manner - however touristy it may have actually been. Carnuntum is a lesser- known region of Austria, but is really producing some great wines with a focus on the reds. For more information on Carnuntum, check here.